The wipeout that nearly killed me
Australian surfer Owen Wright almost lost his life when he was smashed by a giant wave in Hawaii, but thanks to his dad's rigorous training, Owen made it back to surfing glory.
Australian surfer Owen Wright was on track to become world champion in 2015 when he was smashed by a giant wave at the Banzai Pipeline in Hawaii and suffered a traumatic brain injury - he was then hit by a further nine waves. Although he was told he might never surf again, Owen is made of grit and determination thanks to a rigorous and unconventional upbringing by his father. In an amazing comeback, Owen would not only get back on his surfboard, but he'd go on to win Australia's first ever Olympic medal for surfing at the 2020 Tokyo Games. His memoir is called Against the Water.
Presenter: Jo Fidgen
Producer: June Christie
Clip of Owen's comeback at the Quicksilver Pro Gold Coast competition in 2017 came courtesy of the World Surf League.
Get in touch: outlook@bbc.com or WhatsApp +44 330 678 2707
(Photo: Owen Wright at the 2020 Tokyo Olympics. Credit: Ryan Pierse/Getty Images)
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