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The A470 runs nearly 200 miles through the heart of Wales from Llandudno to Cardiff Bay.

It was created to connect north and south of the country, yet it takes four hours – sometimes more - to make the journey. It's certainly not the fastest road in the UK but to drive the A470 is to truly understand the landscape, history, culture and language of Wales.

In the first of two programmes, Cerys Matthews sets out on a road trip in search of a nation's identity and the essence of Welshness. She travels through the Welsh-speaking heartland of the north-west, meeting writers, musicians and historians. She falls into conversation on the streets of Llanrwst, encounters poetry in the paving stones of Blaenau Ffestiniog and discovers the roots of one of her favourite folk songs on the high passes of the A470 beyond Dolgellau.

The A470's route is ancient, its northern sections following the old Roman road, Sarn Helen.

Yet it's also modern: the politics of Wales are complicated by the challenge of bringing together a whole nation both geographically and symbolically. The road was created in 1979 by re-designating older roads. And that's why this tarmac tribute to nationhood winds back and forth across the Welsh landscape, apparently reluctant to reach its final destination.

As she travels south, Cerys hears many different definitions and descriptions of the A470: a road to nowhere; the road Wales deserves; a highway of loss; the Welsh M1.

Producer: Jeremy Grange

First broadcast on Â鶹Éç Radio 4 in January 2014.